Art, Architecture, and engineering: the roman experience
Rome. Ancestor of Western civilization. Heart of the Catholic world. Capitol of Italy.
It's difficult to describe all the different factors that play into the magical energy of Rome. Few other cities in the world have withstood the test of time and tragedy as gracefully and gloriously as Rome. In a city that was founded by wandering peasants, spent its teenage years as a dominating Republic, spread Christianity like wild fire, experienced extended economic decline, and even took a fascist stint, it is easy to see threads and glimpses of Rome's long and storied past everywhere you turn. While America is a melting pot of different cultures, Rome is a melting pot of different eras.
Following the Spring semester of 2014, I was fortunate to spend 10 days in the ancient city as a part of an Honors seminar through UC. In the months leading up to our departure, our class met each Monday to learn about the history, art, architecture, engineering, language, food, and culture of Rome. Our professors, Dr. Nelson and Dr. Rassati, both contributed in preparing us for our journey to Rome through lectures and assigned readings. In addition, we were all assigned a particular monument, architect, artist, or feature in Rome to study beforehand and present on during the trip. My focus was the Colosseum, which I found to be interesting both historically and architecturally. As an Architectural Engineering, I enjoyed learning about the engineering of this concrete structure and the different ways its architecture reflected ancient Roman society. I was particularly intrigued to learn about all of the different types of gladiators and the wide range of uses, for anything from executions to water battles, of the Colosseum.
In addition to our research in preparation for the trip, students also created projects as a reflection on a particular aspect of the trip. For my final project, I chose to focus on the transformation of the floor plan of the Roman basilica with various architectural movements. When I was touring the countless churches scattered throughout the streets of Rome, I began to pick up on some of the intricate differences between basilicas of distinct periods. However, it was difficult, in the moment, to keep track of the different dates, architects, and styles, so the final project was also a means for me to get everything straight in my head. Finally, I used what I learned during the research for my final project to contemplate the deeper, religious, meaning behind all of these buildings and to consider my religious views in relation to the views of the past and present.
Following the Spring semester of 2014, I was fortunate to spend 10 days in the ancient city as a part of an Honors seminar through UC. In the months leading up to our departure, our class met each Monday to learn about the history, art, architecture, engineering, language, food, and culture of Rome. Our professors, Dr. Nelson and Dr. Rassati, both contributed in preparing us for our journey to Rome through lectures and assigned readings. In addition, we were all assigned a particular monument, architect, artist, or feature in Rome to study beforehand and present on during the trip. My focus was the Colosseum, which I found to be interesting both historically and architecturally. As an Architectural Engineering, I enjoyed learning about the engineering of this concrete structure and the different ways its architecture reflected ancient Roman society. I was particularly intrigued to learn about all of the different types of gladiators and the wide range of uses, for anything from executions to water battles, of the Colosseum.
In addition to our research in preparation for the trip, students also created projects as a reflection on a particular aspect of the trip. For my final project, I chose to focus on the transformation of the floor plan of the Roman basilica with various architectural movements. When I was touring the countless churches scattered throughout the streets of Rome, I began to pick up on some of the intricate differences between basilicas of distinct periods. However, it was difficult, in the moment, to keep track of the different dates, architects, and styles, so the final project was also a means for me to get everything straight in my head. Finally, I used what I learned during the research for my final project to contemplate the deeper, religious, meaning behind all of these buildings and to consider my religious views in relation to the views of the past and present.
To download a PDF of my final project, click here:
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Following my trip to Rome, I felt very blessed to have had the opportunity to travel to another country and experience another culture. Although the saying is a cliche, I really did realize just how big the world is and how very different other people live. I've come to realize that other cultures and nationalities don't necessarily value the same things as I do and that an awareness and appreciation of diversity is important. I enjoyed getting to meet many different Italians and share with them what my home is like and the type of things I enjoy doing on a daily basis just as much as I appreciated hearing them describe their perspectives of the magnificent city. I've returned to America with a new appreciation for the lifestyle I live and thankful that I live in such a prosperous, clean, and safe place. However, I've come to see the way other nationalities view Americans, both positively and negatively, and can incorporate these perceptions into modifying my own habits and behaviors. It's no surprise that a city that has changed as much as Rome has over the years, has also changed me.
Highlights of my Roman Experience:
Colosseum: On our first day in Rome, we visited one of the oldest monuments that still stands today, the Colosseum. At first sight, I was awed by the magnificence and magnitude of this huge concrete structure. I was even more impressed that it's survived for nearly 2,000 years through wars, floods, earthquakes, and fires. We were granted immediate access since we were with our wonderful tour guide, Toni, and went directly into the main arena. The size of the Colosseum was completely overwhelming, not to mention the massive amount of life that was lost there. It was haunting to think of all of the gladiators, slaves, criminals, and martyrs that were killed in various gruesome ways there. I was particularly shocked to learn that the ancient Romans would execute condemned criminals by casting them as characters in plays and literally making them act out their own deaths. I found the architecture of the Colosseum to be particularly interesting since the building facilitated the strict social environment of the Roman empire and reflected its long past. The Colosseum was a wonderful way to start at the earliest of Roman history and set the scene for the rest of our trip. Santa Maria Maggiore: Only a few blocks from out hotel, we frequently passed Santa Maria Maggiore as we ventured throughout the city. Walking up the first time, I had no idea what to expect of the old basilica, but I could already tell that it was about to be overwhelming. The facade of the building, done in the Baroque style, was absolutely beautiful and immediately drew me toward the church. As we went inside, I was speechless at the intricate detail and ornamentation of the interior of the church. It took me a few minutes to adjust to the shock of such a beautiful place before I began to wander around the church. I struggled to wrap my mind around how old the basilica was, how many different people had been inside, and how long it had survived. I eventually returned to the basilica towards the end of my trip to spend some time sitting inside and reflecting on my own religious views. I felt a special connection to Santa Maria Maggiore over the other basilicas I saw and still cherish it as one of the most moving experiences on the trip. Pantheon: When I began researching Rome once I decided to take the class, one of the first monuments in the ancient city that caught my interest was the Pantheon. I learned all about its history as a pagan temple and the amazing engineering that went into its concrete structure. It amazed me that even in ancient Rome, humans had the technology to create a dome based on a perfect sphere that was proportioned to touch both the floor and ceiling. The coffered ceiling was another interesting feature of the Pantheon that created a neat optical illusion. I felt very rushed the first time I visited the Pantheon, so I decided to go back during my free time to see it again. I loved looking at all of the detail and the repetitive architectural style of the building. I still find it astounding that architects and engineers in an ancient civilization could design and construct such a massive structure. Tiber Island: On a whim, a group of us decided to trek down to the Tiber River and cross over the Ponte Cestio onto Tiber Island, one of the oldest parts of Rome. The island, which is fully developed, hosts a church, a hospital, and a handful of small shops and eateries. We wandered the street and plazas taking pictures for a few minutes before we had the best gelato of the trip. I ordered the caramel creme which was absolutely divine - it was the perfect mixture of sweet and salty and melted away in my mouth. Then, our little group ventured to the base of the island to stroll around its perimeter on a small limestone walkway level with the river that circled the inhabiting buildings. It was really unique to find such a quiet and peaceful place in the gigantic, bustling city of Rome. Down on the river-walk, I could really feel the surging power of the Tiber and could see how this winding river could support a civilization for multiple millenniums. St. Peter's Basilica: Going into my experience with St. Peter's Basilica, I had no idea what I was about to see and feel. My initial reaction was complete awe at the magnitude of the building and the immense amount of Baroque ornamentation on its walls, ceilings, and floor. It was humbling to be in such a large and important place - I felt dwarfed compared to its massive piers and domes. I spent quite a bit of time exploring its many chapels and rooms, each more fantastic than the last, all the while trying to take in as much detail of the giant basilica as I could. I was surprised to see so many more statues of popes than biblical figures, but it reminded me that this was, in fact, the heart of the Catholic Church. One of my favorite features of St. Peter's was the Baldachin beneath the dome - it was perfectly proportioned to enhance the large space without seeming too small or too large. Outside of the basilica, I enjoyed the hustle and bustle of St. Peter's Square, which we first experienced after we went inside the church. It seemed fitting that such a large basilica would have an even larger plaza as its welcome mat. A few days later, a smaller group of us returned to climb to the top of St. Peter's dome. I was surprised that the climb wasn't actually as intense as I had expected and I enjoyed the views it allowed, both of the city and the interior of the basilica. I was particularly pleased to gain an up-close view of some of the intricate detailing of St. Peter's along our journey to the top. St. Peter's Basilica was definitely a highlight of my trip to Rome, both for its magnitude and architectural magnificence. Assisi: The small hilltop town of Assisi, about two hours from the city, was a wonderful juxtaposition to the large metropolis of Rome. After spending days in the large city, I was excited to get to see what a smaller, more rural area of Italy was like. I was pleasantly surprised to see that there really were small Italian towns of cobblestone streets and stone buildings with flowers and flags hanging off of them. The people in Assisi were as pleasant as could be and often stopped to talk with each other or welcome us. I loved walking through the streets and taking in the sights and sounds of an authentic Italian village. Everything there was so much more compact and efficient than in America - the streets were barely wider than an alley and snaked in and out of centuries-old stone buildings. After visiting the churches that the town is known for, we ate lunch a small restaurant off a small side street. The afternoon was spent wandering the tight streets and looking in many of the small shops. I stopped in a pastry shop and had the most delicious cannoli I have ever tasted. The lemon creme inside was as light and airy as could be. One of the best parts of the small town was its vantage point over the surrounding countryside - you could see for miles. Every now and then, I would glance up and look out over the town's amazing view and would again be swept away by its charm. Trastevere: On the opposite side of the Tiber River from our lodgings and the majority of noteworthy monuments has settled a lively neighborhood known as Trastevere. After hearing so much about this place, a rather large group of us decided to make the 45 minute hike through the city to eat dinner there. We found a place we identified as "rated" by many notable sources and put our name down on the list. Across the street, which was barely the size of an alleyway, we found a nice bar to relax in and wait for the time to pass. When it was finally time for us to return to the restaurant, we were told we were "too on-time" and had to wait for another 45 minutes before we were seated. I actually enjoyed the wait, because it gave us the chance to people watch as people came and went from their dinners. At one point, a radio DJ broadcasting from his bicycle even drove past. Once we got inside, the wait was completely worth it. The food at this restaurant was the absolute best of my entire trip. I had the creamiest, richest four cheese gnocchi possible, and enjoyed the restaurant's house wine. After we enjoyed our meal, we leisurely made our way back to the hotel while taking in the sights and sounds of Rome at night. I particularly enjoyed crossing some of the bridges and seeing the Tiber River at night, it was a very neat experience. San Giovanni in Laterano: On my final day in Rome, I made it a priority to take a trip to San Giovanni in Laterano, despite the fact that none of my classmates joined me. I found it interesting that this church was already set apart from others in the city by the large, barren plaza in front of it. Such a wide expanse made this, the oldest church in the Christian world, seem so much larger and grander. Inside, I was intrigued by the basilica's double side aisle and its use of different ceiling styles and heights to create architectural interest. I loved the combination of the nave's ancient mosaics with its Baroque styling. I wandered the church's chapels and aisles for a bit before I found a seat to relax and reflect on my time in Rome. Many memories of the previous week came flooding back to me and it was a weird feeling to miss a city that I was still sitting in. I was, and still am, very thankful for all of the experiences, good and bad, that I had in Rome. I feel blessed that such a wonderful group of people accompanied me on my journey and added so much excitement, spontaneity, and fun to the trip. I can't wait to return to Rome and revisit all of the places that have claimed a special spot in my heart. |